Group Rides

What to Bring with You
HELMETS ARE MANDATORY! Bring food, drink, tools, spare tubes, proper clothing, and a helmet. A couple of bottles or a hydration backpack with water or energy replacement drink are highly recommended. It doesn't hurt to have more water than you need (but it sure does hurt if you don't have enough). Exercise snacks or gel packs help keep you going.

It would also be nice if you brought a spare tube, a patch kit, a mini-tool and a pump. We don’t necessarily expect you to know how to change a flat; but if you’re going to depend on the kindness of others to help you in your time of need, you should provide your own tubes and CO2 cartridge or pump.

And since you're packing a lot of stuff now; you might consider a photo ID with some emergency contact info and a couple of dollars for rest stops.

A cycling jersey (with the pockets in the back), padded shorts and padded gloves help make your ride comfortable and eye protection is a good idea as well (hey, you're starting to look like a cyclist now).

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Pace
Pace refers to the average speed of the ride. Speeds on the uphill sections will be slower and the downhill sections will be faster. You should also factor in the terrain of the ride along with its average speed. The average speed excludes stops for lunch or regrouping.

Please use the following guidelines to help ensure a more enjoyable ride for everyone. Pick a ride that is within you ability. If you are unsure what that is, pick a ride in the next lower classification.

A - Training 19+ mph
The ride will consist of fast pacelines over rolling or hilly terrain. Riders should be comfortable drafting in large groups. This ride can and will exceed 30 mph during sprints and attacks. The group will not wait for dropped riders so riders are expected to be self sufficient. DO NOT ride with this group if you don't know the route.

B - Recreational 16 - 18 mph
The ride will consist of flat to rolling terrain and may include rest stops every 1.5 to 2 hours. A ride leader will not usually be assigned; however the group will make efforts to keep the ride together. Riders are expected to be familar with the route and comfortable with minor roadside repairs.

C - Touring 13 - 15 mph
The ride will consist of variable terrain (flat to rolling hills) and may include rest stops every 1.5 to 2 hours. A ride leader will be assigned to ensure the group rides together and can assist with minor roadside repairs.

D - Family 10 - 12 mph
The ride will consist of mostly level terrain and frequent stops. A ride leader will be assigned to ensure the group rides together and can assist with minor roadside repairs.

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Distance
The typically CGC group road ride will be 20 miles at a minimum, with the "normal" Tuesday/Thursday rides going 30 to 35 miles. To a new rider these numbers are intimidating. Just remember, even at the slowest pace we advertise (13 -15 mph) this can be covered in less than two hours. There are a couple of alternate routes on each ride to allow those folks who want to ride even shorter distances. Talk with us and we'll be happy to point out these routes.

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Routes
The CGC Group rides are on public roads in the surrounding middle Georgia counties. Most of the roads are lightly traveled country roads; however, there is heavy traffic in the Warner Robins area. Take this into consideration when deciding to attend our group rides. You need to be comfortable riding in traffic as well understand (and obey) Georgia traffic laws. And no, you don't have to be a CGC member to ride with the group.

Directions to Route Start (Maps.Google)

• The Bike Store


• Houston Lake Baptist Church


• Perry Welcome Center

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Route Markers
The "standing" Central Georgia Cyclist group rides (Tuesday/Thursday) follow route markers (displayed on the right), called "Dan Henrys" after the cyclist that is credited for creating them. The road on which the ride will follow will have these circle and bar symbols painted on the right hand side of the road. The bar points the direction of travel for the route. Prior to an intersection on the road, there will be a series of three markers pointing the direction to take at the intersection. If the route turns left, the bar points left; turns right, points right and if the route goes straight, then the bar points straight.

Group Etiquette

Some basic group ride rules, guidelines and etiquette

Be considerate of the other riders and arrive at least 10 to 15 minutes early. Remember that the scheduled ride time is the time the ride will leave the parking lot.

Make sure your bicycle is in proper working order BEFORE you arrive.

We do expect you to have the basics skills of cycling (shifting, pedaling, braking, riding a straight line, etc).

A good cyclist is pedictable,they ride at a steady pace and in a straight line. Pay attention to where you are and who is around you. Weaving and wandering over the road will quickly get you in trouble. Steady also applies to the pace. Don't slow down or zoom ahead unexpectedly, this creates a "yo-yo" effect. Small changes in speed at the front of the group are like power surges at the back.

Ride two abreast at all times, especially when first departing. Obey all rules of the road (red lights, stop signs, hand signals, the yellow line and riding on the right). Cyclists are considered “Annoyances” by other drivers and “Vehicles” by Police/Sheriff departments; you can be ticketed and we have been stopped (in Byron).

If there is a large turnout; we may break the ride into smaller, more manageable groups to allow cars more opportunities to pass safely. We may go single file from time to time for safety or other reasons. We'll make every attempt to create a safe ride; nevertheless, you ride at your own risk.

Please wait for stragglers - if the group gets separated at intersections, soft pedal until they catch up. Remember, this is a group ride so you might want to consider riding "as a group".

We cannot control the actions of the drivers on the road and I can’t tell you how to behave on a bike. Nevertheless, if you act in a manner that puts the safety of our group at risk, we will ask you not to ride with us. "CAR BACK" is not a suggestion, it’s a warning; and it means move quickly to the right side of the road. Yelling at drivers and one-finger salutes are not techniques that improve our public relations with the motorized population; although, we have found that waving and smiling does help.

If you have never been on a group ride, let us know. A quick “hello, my name ….” is a nice ice breaker. We want you to enjoy this experience; we don’t want you wandering around lost in the dark. 12 miles into a 60 mile ride is not the time or place to find out you’re not ready for this and don’t have a route map.

For all you saddle sore veterans out there,introduce yourself to the newcomers. Let them know about the group, club, events, etc. If a rider is having trouble, help them out; you may need the favor returned one day.

Be a responsible host. If you bring a guest, especially one that is new to group rides; watch out for them. If they have trouble during the ride (either physical or mechanical) assist them, ride with them and make sure they get back home. You can make or break their interest in cycling in their first ride out. If you make this ride a pleasant experience,it will give them a reason to come back - we typically refer to this as "a good thing ..."

We encourage everyone to set training goals and seek their personal best; however, you must understand your own limitations. Pick a ride that is within your capabilities. If you’re not sure, start with the Wednesday ride; it’s 23 miles at 13 to 15 mph and is purposely design to help new riders and the returning casual riders get back their fitness.

And finally, please show respect to the communities we ride through by not littering; GU packs don’t take up a lot of room in your pocket.

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Riding Techniques
Ride Smoothly Remember that the safety of a group of riders depends on the actions of each rider. Riders must ride smoothly and predictably to avoid collisions. Keep in mind that someone is probably very close behind you. Don't brake hard unless you absolutely must and then call out to warn other riders. Glance over your shoulder before you move out of your line. When you are out on your own, you can do anything you like. The dynamics of the pack are more complicated. A pack of experienced riders that ride together often moves like a unit. It only takes one rider to disrupt the flow. There is another advantage to riding smoothly: you save energy and feel fresher at the end of the ride.

Intersections Sometimes the whole group can't make it through the intersection without getting split up by cars. The bikers that make it through in the first wave should try to slow up a bit to let the second wave catch up before picking up the pace. Occasionally, bikers take unnecessary chances with cars just to avoid getting dropped by the people who got through the intersection first. Give them a break.

Stay to the Right When riding, stay to the right of the road unless you are riding double or are passing. This will allow others to pass on your left without going into the lane of oncoming traffic. This is particularly important on the hills where the pack breaks up. Too often, riders will climb near the center line forcing faster riders to ride in the lane of oncoming traffic in order to pass. If you are getting passed on the hills, move over to give them some room. Stay out of the lane of oncoming traffic. Cars travel fast and can appear suddenly. Try not to pass on the right. If you must, give an "ON YOUR RIGHT" signal.

Dealing with Cars SHARE THE ROAD - Nearly all the roads we ride on carry auto traffic as well as bicycles. We are adamant about our right to ride these roads but we have an obligation to ride in a manner than keeps conflicts to a minimum. The vast majority of the drivers are considerate of bikers. We tend to focus on the few that we exchange words with before they speed into the distance. Try to remember the ones that stop so that you can make a left turn. Most of us also drive.

Communications Avoid shouting at motorists or using nonstandard hand signals. I know, sometimes it is just too much to ask. But it doesn't help, and it can make enemies of the motorists.

Riding Double Riding two abreast is fine when the traffic is light and traffic can be seen well in advance. Sooner or later, a car will overtake the pack and the riders should be prepared to single up to allow the traffic by. The rider on the left should drop behind the rider on the right. The line of riders on the right will have to spread out to allow room for the riders moving in. This means the riders in the front must speed up and the riders in the rear slow up.

Stay in your Lane Stay out of the lane of the oncoming traffic at all times. Cars approach too fast for safety and drivers do not expect a rider in their lane. Avoid riding three abreast for this reason. It places the rider on the left too close to the oncoming traffic. Stay out of the right hand turn lane when you are at an intersection waiting for the traffic to clear. This allows traffic to turn right while the pack is waiting for an opening.

Signal Turns Riders should always signal turns. Let the traffic know what to expect. Signal like you mean it. Some rider's signals are so anemic that they could go unnoticed. All riders in a pack should signal. One or two people in a pack of twenty or so is not very convincing to drivers. It can lead to confusion.

Left Turns Left turns are one of the more dangerous maneuvers for a bike in traffic and should be done with care, following the rules of the road. Remember, the car behind is anxious to get around and may be tempted to pass. Begin the turn well in advance. Signal the turn and when the traffic behind is clear, move to the left hand side of the lane. Do not pull in front of a car expecting it to slow down for you. Stay on the left of the lane as you approach intersection and turn left when the oncoming traffic is clear. Before turning, glance over your left shoulder-a car may decide to pass you on the left as you turn.

Stopping Every once in a while, the pack needs to pull over while someone adjusts a brake or visits nature. Move to the side of the road and out of the lane of traffic. There is no excuse for causing congestion when we are not even riding. This seems obvious, but a surprising number of people camp out in the lane of traffic when the pack comes to a stop.

Pedestrians Don't surprise pedestrians. When overtaking them (or other cyclists) call out "ON YOUR LEFT" (or RIGHT) well in advance. Be a polite as possible so that you don't sound like you are forcing them off the road. Let them know where you intend to go and then be ready for them to jump in front of you; sometimes they will. If the lead rider spots a pedestrian approaching the group on the same side of the road, they should call out "WALKER UP" so that the entire group is aware of the hazard. The group should move out from the right side of the road to allow the pedestrian room to get by.

Riding in a Paceline

As you become a more experienced rider, you will find that riding in a paceline is an exciting way to enhance your riding experience. In a paceline, the front rider breaks the wind, allowing the riders behind to draft him. By drafting the bicycle in front of you, you can reduce your energy output considerably. This has the effect of allowing the overall group to move faster that its riders could alone. While pacelines can be exciting and beneficial to everyone in the group, they can also be extremely dangerous. Since you are riding at a relatively high rate of speed only inches from the bicycle in front, you have very little time to react to any situations that may develop.

Pacelines are either single or double. In a single paceline, everyone lines up behind the first rider, who maintains a constant speed. The rotation occurs when the front rider pulls off to the side and drifts to the back of the line. The next rider then sets the pace. Riders stay on the front from a few seconds to several minutes. This type of paceline has the advantage of requiring less road space.

A double echelon, also known as a rotating paceline, contains two lines of riders side by side, continuously in motion. One line goes slightly faster than the other does. Let's say you're the lead rider in the faster line. You should cross over to the slow line after passing the front wheel of the rider beside you (the front rider in the slower line). Then you drift back with the others in the slow line. When the final position is reached (back of the line), slide onto the back wheel of the last rider in the fast line.

Tips for Riding in a Paceline
Get used to following closely to the rider in front of you to get the benefit of the draft. You use much less energy following a cyclist than riding out in the wind by yourself. Top riders feel comfortable riding within inches of the wheel in front; however, you are NOT a top rider so leave some room. In a rotating paceline, stay as close together side to side.

Accelerate slowly and with an eye to keeping the group together. Attacks, jumps, short-hard pulls and other race-like riding may be fine for certain smaller rides but have no place in a group oriented ride. Novice riders often assume this kind of aggressive riding is better training than a good rotating paceline.

Don't open gaps! If you find yourself behind a gap close it slowly. A skilled group will remain in a tight paceline through 95% of an average ride including stops, corners, short climbs, descents, and traffic by closing the inevitable gaps before they become problems.

Put weaker riders behind stronger ones. A paceline is a team. It's only as strong as its weakest member is, so help that person.

Wheelsitters are always welcome, but please stay at the back. There's nothing more disruptive than someone who rotates to the front only to slow down on hitting the wind. If you're feeling extended, tired, or otherwise not inclined to pull through there's no problem with sitting at the back, just let the riders who are rotating know when they've reached the back of the rotating section.

A consistent pace is key. Try establishing a pedaling rhythm before reaching the front, and maintain it until just after pulling off. If you're feeling especially strong accelerate and/or take a longer pull but if you do increase the pace do it gradually. Don't forget to pedal harder on descents to make up for the extra aerodynamic resistance.

When moving from a seated to a standing position, stay on the power so you do not fall back into the bike behind you. Even some really strong riders tend to do this so be forewarned.

If you must spit or blow your nose move out of the paceline enough so no one is directly behind you. The guys behind you don't want your snot or spit all over them

Don't accommodate elitist attitudes. Perhaps the best thing about good group rides, aside from training, is socializing. Team affiliation, racing experience, helmet use, type of bicycle, etc. are all matters of individual preference and should be left as such. As long as the rider is safe and able to keep up they should be welcome.

Tips for the Lead Rider
When moving to the front of a paceline, keep your speed smooth until the rider pulling off is able to get back in the line. If you are able to accelerate, do so smoothly and gradually so as not to cause a break in the line.

It is the responsibility of the lead rider to steer the paceline clear of, and call out, any oncoming obstacles. This is especially important in a paceline where the riders in the back may not be able to see what is coming. The lead rider needs to be looking well ahead on the road so that they have time to react to oncoming obstacles.

Don't accelerate through a yellow light unless you know the back of the group can make it too. If the group does get split ride slowly until the rear group has caught back on. If you're at the back please don't run through the intersection just to maintain contact unless it is clear that approaching traffic is waiting for the entire group to pass.

Stay at the front only as long as you are comfortably able to maintain the pace. Short 30 second pulls are just fine. Do not feel the need to stay out front as long, or go quite as fast, as others may have. It is better to take a short pull and get off before bogging down the whole line.

Maintain a constant speed when you get to the front by glancing at your cycle computer. The tendency for new riders is to jump and pick up the pace.

Be aware of wind direction. If there is a cross wind from the left, you should move as far to the left as you safely can to allow the riders behind you to ride on the right. Don't hug the white line!

When you are finished with your pull and ready to get off the front you should first look over your shoulder to see if it is safe to move over. If it is clear, signal to the next rider that you are pulling off. Keep pedaling as you move off the front. Don't slow your cadence until the following rider has begun to pull through.

Georgia Code (Rules of the Road)

40-6-290
The provisions of this part applicable to bicycles shall apply whenever a bicycle is operated upon a highway or upon any path set aside for the exclusive use of bicycles, subject to those exceptions stated in this part.

40-6-291
The provisions of this chapter that apply to vehicles, but not exclusively to motor vehicles, shall apply to bicycles, except that the penalties prescribed in subsection (b) of Code Section 40-6-390, subsection (c) of Code Section 40-6-391, and subsection (a) of Code Section 40-6-393 shall not apply to persons riding bicycles.

40-6-292
(a) A person propelling a bicycle shall not ride other than upon or astride a permanent and regular seat attached thereto and shall allow no person to ride upon the handlebars.

(b) No bicycle shall be used to carry more persons at one time than the number for which it is designed and equipped.

(c) No person shall transport a child under the age of one year as a passenger on a bicycle on a highway, roadway, bicycle path, or sidewalk; provided, however, that a child under the age of one year may be transported on a bicycle trailer or in an infant sling so long as such child is seated in the bicycle trailer or carried in an infant sling according to the bicycle trailer´s or infant sling´s manufacturer´s instructions, and the bicycle trailer is properly affixed to the bicycle according to the bicycle trailer´s manufacturer´s instructions or the infant sling is properly worn by the rider of the bicycle according to the infant sling´s manufacturer´s instructions and such child transported in a bicycle trailer or infant sling is wearing a bicycle helmet as required under paragraph (1) of subsection (e) of Code Section 40-6-296.

(d) No child between the ages of one year and four years shall ride as a passenger on a bicycle or bicycle trailer or be transported in an infant sling unless the child is securely seated in a child passenger bicycle seat, bicycle trailer, or infant sling according to the child passenger bicycle seat´s, bicycle trailer´s, or infant sling´s manufacturer´s instructions and the child passenger seat or bicycle trailer is properly affixed to the bicycle according to the child passenger bicycle seat´s or bicycle trailer´s manufacturer´s instructions or the infant sling is worn according to the infant sling´s manufacturer´s instructions.

(e) Violation of subsections (c) and (d) of this Code section shall not constitute negligence per se nor contributory negligence per se or be considered evidence of negligence or liability.

(f) No person under the age of 16 years failing to comply with subsections (c) and (d) of this Code section may be fined or imprisoned.

40-6-293
No person riding upon any bicycle, coaster, roller skates, sled, or toy vehicle shall attach the same or himself to any vehicle upon a roadway.

40-6-294
(a) Every person operating a bicycle upon a roadway shall ride as near to the right side of the roadway as practicable, except when turning left or avoiding hazards to safe cycling, when the lane is too narrow to share safely with a motor vehicle, when traveling at the same speed as traffic, or while exercising due care when passing a standing vehicle or one proceeding in the same direction; provided, however, that every person operating a bicycle away from the right side of the roadway shall exercise reasonable care and shall give due consideration to the other applicable rules of the road. As used in this subsection, the term 'hazards to safe cycling' includes, but is not limited to, surface debris, rough pavement, drain grates which are parallel to the side of the roadway, parked or stopped vehicles, potentially opening car doors, or any other objects which threaten the safety of a person operating a bicycle.

(b) Persons riding bicycles upon a roadway shall not ride more than two abreast except on paths or parts of roadways set aside for the exclusive use of bicycles.

(c) Whenever a usable path has been provided adjacent to a roadway and designated for the exclusive use of bicycle riders, then the appropriate governing authority may require that bicycle riders use such path and not use those sections of the roadway so specified by such local governing authority. The governing authority may be petitioned to remove restrictions upon demonstration that the path has become inadequate due to capacity, maintenance, or other causes.

(d) Paths subject to the provisions of subsection (c) of this Code section shall at a minimum be required to meet accepted guidelines, recommendations, and criteria with respect to planning, design, operation, and maintenance as set forth by the American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials, and such paths shall provide accessibility to destinations equivalent to the use of the roadway.

(e) Electric assisted bicycles as defined in Code Section 40-1-1 may be operated on bicycle paths.

40-6-295
No person operating a bicycle shall carry any package, bundle, or other article which prevents him from keeping at least one hand upon the handlebars.

40-6-296
(a) Every bicycle when in use at nighttime shall be equipped with a light on the front which shall emit a white light visible from a distance of 300 feet to the front and with a red reflector on the rear of a type approved by the Department of Motor Vehicle Safety which shall be visible from a distance of 300 feet to the rear when directly in front of lawful upper beams of headlights on a motor vehicle. A light emitting a red light visible from a distance of 300 feet to the rear may be used in addition to the red reflector.

(b) Every bicycle sold or operated shall be equipped with a brake which will enable the operator to make the braked wheels skid on dry, level pavement.

(c) No bicycle shall be equipped or operated while equipped with a set of handlebars so raised that the operator must elevate his hands above his shoulders in order to grasp the normal steering grip area.

(d) No bicycle shall be equipped, modified, or altered in such a way as to cause the pedal in its lowermost position to be more than 12 inches above the ground, nor shall any bicycle be operated if so equipped.

(e)(1) No person under the age of 16 years shall operate or be a passenger on a bicycle on a highway, bicycle path, or sidewalk under the jurisdiction or control of this state or any local political subdivision thereof without wearing a bicycle helmet.

(2) For the purposes of this subsection, the term 'bicycle helmet' means a piece of protective headgear which meets or exceeds the impact standards for bicycle helmets set by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) or the Snell Memorial Foundation.

(3) For the purposes of this subsection, a person shall be deemed to wear a helmet only if a helmet of good fit is fastened securely upon the head with the straps of the helmet.

(4) No bicycle without an accompanying protective bicycle helmet shall be rented or leased to or for the use of any person under the age of 16 years unless that person is in possession of a bicycle helmet at the time of the rental or lease.

(5) Violation of any provision of this subsection shall not constitute negligence per se nor contributory negligence per se or be considered evidence of negligence or liability.

(6) No person under the age of 16 failing to comply with any provision of this subsection may be fined or imprisoned.

40-6-297
(a) It shall be unlawful for any person to sell a new bicycle or a pedal for use on a bicycle unless the pedals on such bicycle or such pedals are equipped with reflectors of a type approved by the Department of Public Safety. The reflector on each pedal shall be so designed and situated as to be visible from the front and rear of the bicycle during darkness from a distance of 200 feet. The commissioner of public safety is authorized to promulgate rules and regulations and establish standards for such reflectors.

(b) This Code section shall not apply to any bicycle purchased prior to July 1, 1972, by a retailer for the purpose of resale.

40-6-298
(a) It is a misdemeanor for any person to do any act forbidden or fail to perform any act required in this part.

(b) The parent of any child and the guardian of any ward shall not authorize or knowingly permit such child or ward to violate any of the provisions of this part.

40-6-299
The Board of Public Safety is authorized to promulgate rules and regulations to carry this part into effect and is authorized to establish regulations for any additional safety equipment or standards it shall require for bicycles.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How far do you ride?

We have routes that can accomodate a wide variety of fitness levels. Typically though, we ride 30 to 40 miles at a time. Before you walk away thinking "I can't do that", remember this - no one you see on our rides started out riding this distance, they all started just like you and trained their way up to that.

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How fast do you ride?
Again, the routes are designed for different ride groups. However, recognize that the group has been in existance for some time now; so "entry" into this club is some what steep. 13 to 15 mph for two hours is considered a "beginner" ride. The really fast guys average 20+ for three or more hours.

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Do you think I can ride that fast?
Well if you haven't been on a bike before the short answer is no, you can't. I don't care how fast you run or how fit you think you are; if you haven't ridden a bike before, then you are not going to keep up with the fast guys. That "average" speed means just that, the average. There aren't many people in Middle Georgia that can ride at that pace. The group rides in this area tend to break around 15, 18, 21 mph averages.

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What are the roads like in this area?
Pretty darn good actually. The routes are basically flat with enough climbing to keep you honest (like most group rides, it's the hills that separate the fast from everyone else).

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Isn't the traffic dangerous?

Traffic is not dangerous, careless drivers are dangerous. Like any other vehicle on the road, we depend on the drivers to pay attention out there. Fortunately for us, just ten minutes outside of Warner Robins is relatively quiet country roads, and we spend most of our ride time there.

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What kind of bike should I get?
Different bikes do different things well. For example, a mountain bike is well suited to rocky dirt trails (not the "mountain bikes" you see in Wally Mart). Comfort bikes are for short casual rides and recreation. Road bikes are designed for distance and speed. So the question is really "What do you want to do, or how much fitness are you looking for?"

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What's a good bike?
Any reputable Bike Store (like The Bike Store) will carry a large line of bikes for all types of riding. Starting at a basic entry level bike all the way up to and include high end race team replicas. They all will get you down the road, the difference in price is usually reflected in the component quality and weight (the more expensive it is the lighter it tends to get - it costs a lot of money to take a pound off a bicycle)

Commuting

("Ten Tips for Safe & Enjoyable Bicycle Commuting by Fred Oswald" www.geocities.com/fredoswald/tentips.htm)

Cycling to work and for errands is safe, practical and fun if you do it right. But there is much more to driving a bicycle than balance and steering. Many of the "bike safety" things we were taught as kids are wrong and some are dangerous.

A common misconception about cycling is the extent and source of danger. Most people think that the greatest danger is getting run down by cars passing from behind. The fear is natural because cars are fast and noisy and we cannot see them coming. But it is wrong. These collisions represent less than one-half of one percent of urban, daylight accidents to cyclists. (In rural areas, the ratio is slightly higher and unlighted cyclists and drunk drivers make these crashes much more common at night.)

About 90 percent of car-bike collisions involve turning and crossing traffic. (Just like car crashes.) Most of the rest are caused by wrong way riders or by swerving in front of traffic. This means the hazards are right in front of you, where you can see and avoid them if you know what to do. Below are ten tips to make your cycling safer, more useful and much more fun.

1. Avoid Riding On Sidewalks. Many people think that the sidewalk is a safe place to ride. However, accident studies show that riding on sidewalks has two to nine times the accident risk as proper cycling on the road, especially if you go fast. Sidewalk cyclists are in danger at every road crossing and even driveways because motorists do not look for fast traffic on the sidewalk. Also, mixing pedestrians and cyclists is dangerous to both. A bicycle “sidepath” next to a road is just about as dangerous as a sidewalk. This is why cyclists are often required to walk bikes across intersections. (Note the sign in the photo to the right.) You are much safer in the street, following the rules of the road for drivers of vehicles. Your right to use the road does not depend on having a motor.

2. Ride On The Right With Other Traffic. Some people were taught to ride on the wrong side of the road so they can “see traffic coming”. This is dangerous and it is illegal in all 50 states. Pedestrians walk facing traffic so they can sidestep off the road, if necessary. But you cannot sidestep on a bike. The accident rate for wrong-way cyclists is almost four times as high as for cycling the "right" way. Other drivers look for traffic coming from the usual direction. They do not look for wrong-way traffic.

3. Be Visible! Other drivers will not hit you IF they can see you. Bright clothes make you easier to spot in the daytime but they are little help at night; riding without lights in the dark is a very dangerous mistake. About thirty percent of cycling crashes occur at night although only about four percent of cycling is done then. The reflectors that come with new bikes are inadequate for nighttime safety. Always use a headlight and taillight when you ride in the dark. If you are caught by darkness without lights don't try to sneak home on the sidewalk. Walk your bike home or call for a ride. The photo at right shows the author's machine with two headlights. Notice how little of the bike is visible, other than the headlights.

4. Follow The Rules Of The Road. Everyone following the same “rules of the road” allows safe and efficient travel for all. This is the principle behind the Effective Cycling** program. Cyclists who make up their own rules are in great danger.

5. Learn Proper Lane Position. Beginners typically “hug the curb” and then wonder why cars pass so close. Experienced cyclists let traffic pass when they can but they "use the full lane" when needed for safety. If cars are passing you too close, move a bit left to show other drivers that they must use another lane. This way you also reserve a "safety space" to the right. But if you collect a string of cars behind you, try to find a safe way to let them pass. It takes practice to learn to ride effectively in traffic. The right tire track of the right lane is often a good place to ride on a narrow road. Notice in the photo at right the red car is going completely into the next lane to pass. But if the cyclist were "hugging the curb" the motorist would likely "squeeze" past in the same lane.

6. Be Predictable. Ride a good, straight "line", signal turns and generally look like you know what you are doing. How can you expect other drivers to avoid you if they cannot tell where you are going?

7. Be Courteous. Act like an adult and share the road with other drivers. If others act rudely, keep your temper -- don't descend to their level. Carry a "jerk book" to write down license number and vehicle description of any dangerous drivers you see.

8. Protect Yourself. A helmet will not prevent a bike crash but it is good, cheap insurance that may allow you to walk away from one. Make sure your helmet fits and is adjusted properly. Cycling gloves help prevent “handlebar palsy” and protect hands from abrasion in a fall. Carry a small a first-aid kit too.

9. Keep your Machine In Safe Condition. Give your bike an occasional "tune up". Before hopping on, give the bike a “quick check”. Make sure that wheels are tight, tires in good shape and squeeze brakes hard to see that they work and that cables are not about to snap.

10. Learn From Experienced Cyclists. Experience can be a harsh teacher and it is a slow one. (It takes at least 10,000 miles of cycling in traffic to become confident if you try to learn on your own.) Why make all the beginners' mistakes yourself when you can learn from others? Join a good cycling club, take a Bike Ed class and read expert books such as John Allen's Street Smarts and John Forester's Effective Cycling.